Winter Hikes in South County, RI

As seen in the January 2013 issue of SO Rhode Island magazine

Winter has set, in but that doesn’t mean we have to settle for cozy afternoons by the fire reading a book and sipping tea. Wait, that’s not exactly a bad thing but let’s just say you want to mix things up a little bit. In an attempt to avoid cabin fever, set out into the wilderness and let the cold wind caress your face. Now, there is really no wilderness in South County. But for those of us city- or suburb-bound, a little open space can seem huge; and in a place as small as Rhode Island, where there is basically a Dunkin' Donuts on every corner, these open spaces are gems. They are places to be enjoyed for their feelings of solitude or with the company of your choice. Whether a novice in need of a gorgeous view, or a seasoned hiker with a want for a bit of a challenge, we’ve got your hiking needs covered.

To begin with, always check the weather and dress appropriately. Personally, I would not go hiking during a rainstorm. I would, however, watch the snow fall over the ocean, but I am a bit of a romantic. A good base layer of thermals always gets me through either a light or more challenging hike. Wearing a windproof jacket also makes life immeasurably more enjoyable while choosing to spend time in the cold. 

Speaking of snow, contrary to popular belief, hiking after a snowfall is a great idea for a number of reasons. If you have never had the pleasure of being the first to walk a trail after a snowfall, add it to your bucket list. The quiet serenity of walking in the woods while hearing fresh snow crunching under your boots is something out of a Laura Ingalls Wilder novel. The sight of snow at the tide line is also something that leaves me in awe. Snow on the beach never lasts too long, so it’s always a treat when you finally do see it.

Classic New England

Take in the view at Beavertail

Photograph by Grace Lentini

Sometimes in the cold air, all you can do is take in the view in a gorgeous location. That is what is so great about Beavertail State Park in Jamestown. As you make your way down Conanicut Island, past beautiful farmland, past the historic Jamestown windmill, across Zeke’s Creek and finally winding around to the southern point at Beavertail, this point looks south into the Atlantic and separates the East and West passages. This rocky outcrop is never shy on gorgeous, big crashing waves and, oh did I mention: the Beavertail Lighthouse. It’s only a quintessential New England experience to be sitting on the rocks in front of the lighthouse, hearing the horn blowing and feeling the salt spray on your face. No big deal. 

What’s more, we have the luxury of special winter guests that grace our rocky coastlines, Harlequin ducks. These medium sized, northern nesting birds overwinter in our “warmer” waters and dive and dabble for food source. Mollusks, crustaceans, insects, bait fish and roe (found in marine and riverine environments) make up their varied diet.

Male Harlequin ducks are exquisite in their plumage. They exhibit a slate blue base, chestnut sides and vibrant white markings including a white dot on their cheek. Adorable. Whether I am out with my spotting scope or binoculars in hand, I know that I will have a good chance of seeing these ducks if I make the effort to leave the couch. 

Walk With the Animals
Trustom Pond offers glimpses of wildlife

Illustrations by Caleigh McGrath

Now, if I actually want to brave the cold and hike it out, I will pick a day where the wind is calm and the sun is shining and head on down to Trustom Pond National Wildlife Refuge. And yes, I will bring my spotting scope, binoculars or camera, or some combination, because there is always something to see at Trustom.

It is a unique place. After you park in the gravel parking lot and leave your car, you walk into trails that are situated in coastal shrubland and mixed forest. Expect to see your typical overwintering birds such as White-crowned sparrows, Dark-eyed juncos, Tufted titmice and Black-capped chickadees as you walk the trails. Also, keep an eye out for the deer trails that are tucked away beneath the shrubs. I always feel like I’ve been let in on some secret the moment I recognize a deer trail or catch a glimpse of a White-tailed deer out of the corner of my eye.

But, when I go to Trustom, my heart is set on getting to the coastal pond. I want to see my overwintering dabbling ducks. I need to see them. I need to see the Buffleheads, the Common Goldeneye, the Ring-necked Ducks. They are so cute. I can’t deal with it. Especially the Buffleheads, they are so little and while they are diving for food it’s always a game to see where they will pop up.

Trustom is multifaceted. Because of the variety of habitats, you will encounter wildlife species like Sharp-shinned hawks and Barred owls. These birds of prey will be hunting all year round, and, because of the open fields that Trustom offers, you will have a birds- eye view of prime hunting opportunities and may even catch a predatorprey interaction in person.

Arcadia Management Area

Thinking springy thoughts

But let’s say you want to head inland. Maybe the thought of being too close to the ocean in the winter is more than you can bear — you’re clearly not from around here. That’s okay, let’s go to Arcadia Management Area, and head to Breakheart Pond (end of Hick's Trail off Frosty Hollow Road).

This is a favorite spot of mine regardless of the time of year. It’s a short hike that gives me my nature fix. It combines a typical New England mixed forest, so even though the deciduous trees are barren at the moment, the white pines are holding down the fort and providing the greenery in these wintry months. This trail can easily be hiked with a good pair of boots or with snow shoes after a snowfall. It’s entirely up to you what you are in the mood for.

This is one of those spots where hiking in the winter time makes me think of the spring and how much places like these come alive with the melting of the snow. I start to think about spring peepers, and wood frogs and turning over rotting logs in the hopes of catching a Red-backed salamander or even a Spotted salamander. I look into the pond and see logs and rocks along the edges. It makes me think about the painted and spotted turtles that will be sunning themselves and resting on these in the not-to-distant future. Winter makes me grateful for the spring and gives me an appreciation for patience and the natural order of things.

I used to live on Wachaug Pond; it was a beautiful and strange moment in my life. When a pond freezes and decides to shift, and furthermore is surrounded by mostly protected land, the effect is incredible. The sound is alien. It brings you back to a time where people were more in touch with their environment. It’s visceral. That is what being outside is the winter is like, a visceral reaction to an environment that you may or may not be entirely in touch with. So go out an enjoy it. Although it may just be for a short amount of time, it’s long enough to get your outdoor fix and explore areas you may not have thought of or see wildlife you never thought you would see.

Winter Hikes in the East Bay, RI and Southeastern, MA

As seen in the January 2013 issue of The Bay magazine

Illustrations by Caleigh McGrath (cmcgrath88@gmail.com)

Winter is settling in, but that doesn’t mean we have to settle for cozy afternoons by the fire reading a book and sipping tea. (Wait, this isn’t a bad thing!) But let’s just say you want to mix things up a little bit. In an attempt to avoid cabin fever, set out into the wilderness and let the cold wind caress your face. Now, there is really no wilderness in southeastern New England. But for those of us city or suburb bound, a little open space can seem huge; and in a place as small as Rhode Island, where there is basically a Dunkin Donuts on every corner, these open spaces are gems. They are places to be enjoyed for their feelings of solitude or with the company of your choice. Whether a novice in need of a gorgeous view, or a seasoned hiker with a want for a bit of a challenge, we’ve got your hiking needs covered.

To begin with, always check the weather and dress appropriately. Personally, I would not go hiking during a rainstorm. I would, however, watch the snow fall over the ocean, but I am a bit of a romantic. A good base layer of thermals always gets me through either a light or more challenging hike. Wearing a windproof jacket also makes life immeasurably more enjoyable while choosing to spend time in the cold.

Speaking of snow, contrary to popular belief, hiking after a snowfall is a great idea for a number of reasons. If you have never had the pleasure of being the first to walk a trail after a snowfall, add it to your bucket list. The quiet serenity of walking in the woods while hearing fresh snow crunching under your boots is something out of a Laura Ingalls Wilder novel. The sight of snow at the tide line is also something that leaves me in awe. Snow on the beach never lasts too long, so it’s always a treat when you finally do see it.

Fort Phoenix

A kid-friendly adventure 

For a view of the ocean and a family-friendly place to bring the kids, Fort Phoenix is the place for you. Nestled on a peninsula in Fairhaven, it is a Civil War-era fort, complete with cannons. Not only can the kids, and adults, climb all over the cannons, but it’s a great place to view a variety of gulls. Here, you can view Great Black-backed gulls (the largest of the gull family), Herring gulls and Ring-billed gulls. In the summer the piping plover and American oystercatcher may make an appearance but, for now, gulls will do nicely. Common loons or double-crested cormorants may also make appearances. And, because this is a major port to the fishing community in New Bedford, don’t be surprised if a seal or two shows its head while eating discarded bycatch from fishing vessels.

Fort Phoenix is also the perfect place for the beginner hiker. It’s an easy introduction to the outdoors that’ll challenge you a little bit but will also give you an easy, level walk if you like. The canons are positioned on a rocky outcrop where one can easily scramble up and down the granite ledges positioned at various angles. Of course, this wouldn’t be recommended after, let’s say, a freezing night when ice has formed. But on a mild winter day with a pair of warm gloves, traversing these gentle slopes is just plain fun. I remember climbing these as a child and imagining that I was climbing Mount Everest. I would reach the top and suddenly, I was on top of the world, overlooking Buzzards Bay and hearing the gulls call in the distance.

Aside from the rocky outcrops, there is plenty of level hiking area if you are more interested in an easy stroll. For a very flat surface and one that does not compromise the gorgeous view, take a stroll on the hurricane barrier. It’s just over one half mile round trip, and on a winter day near the water, maybe that’s enough. End of Green Street, Fairhaven, MA. 508-992-4524

Horseneck Beach

For a wild time

Let’s say that you are more interested in cool wildlife viewing opportunities than just a pretty view. Head on over to Horseneck Beach in Westport and you just might catch a North American Snowy Owl. Although this Arctic raptor typically overwinters farther north, various factors have influenced North America’s heaviest owl to expand south. These factors range from lack of food supply to a successful breeding season with the juveniles forced to migrate to find suitable habitat elsewhere. Whatever the reason, I’m glad that they are here. Simply put, they are gorgeous. With black bills and yellow eyes, the males are typically pure white while the females and juveniles tend to have some dark scalloping splashed along their plumage. Bring your spotting scope or zoom lens camera and enjoy the thrill of trying to spot one. Unlike other owl species, Snowy Owls are diurnal, meaning that they hunt during the daytime and are most active at dawn and dusk. They are typically found on or near the ground, so don’t go looking up in trees to find them. Another thing to consider with Snowy Owls is that they are long-distance migrants. The juvenile that we may see on our shores has been bred in the Arctic. Observing this species at a distance is best; the less we bother them, the better.

And just because you are shore bound doesn’t mean that catching glimpses of diving ducks is out of the question. Some typical species that could make an appearance are common Eider or Long-tailed Ducks. Both species tend to group themselves into rafts and either chill out on top of the water, take a break on offshore rocks or constantly be in motion as they dive for bait fish, or anything larger if they’re lucky. I find that on beautifully sunny winter days, when I’m dressed in about three to four layers, just getting outside and into nature, whether I see something or not, is utter zen. Now, I may not exactly be outside for a long time, but there is still something special about being outside this time of year. Also, if I know I’m going to be hiking along the beach, I’ll try to choose a day that will not be too windy. On the other hand, if you do brave the beach on a windy day, expect to see a spectacular display of wave action. There is nothing more New England than watching the waves crash while dressed in your finest L.L. Bean gear or in your favorite Carhartt jacket. 5 John Reed Road, Westport, MA. 508-636-8816

Fort Barton

Living history

Now let’s go to the other end of the spectrum. Let’s go inland and do something more challenging. I’m talking about Fort Barton in Tiverton. This is a Revolutionary War fort. The most challenging part of this hike is the very beginning, a somewhat steep climb that immediately rewards with impressive views of the Sakonnet River. And this is just the beginning.

After you’ve caught your breath, start to wind your way around the watch tower and you’ll encounter a series of somewhat steep wooden stairs. Good hiking footwear is essential for this trail. Personally, I enjoy the steep series of stairs; it’s a good workout and feels like the adult version of the granite outcrops at Fort Phoenix. At the top of the final climb to the trailhead take a moment to relish your accomplishment, then head off into the woods and see what you find. If you think hiking in general is serene, try it in the winter. It is just so much quieter. Every sound in the woods seems amplified; the twigs snap louder, the birds tweet sweeter and the soft steps on the dirt trail seems more poignant. Off in the distance you will hear the soft bubbling of a stream that runs through the property, welcome to serenity.

I have a soft spot for wooden bridges, and this place has a few. I always feel like I’ve found some hidden treasure every time I walk over one. This time of year I would expect to find White-crowned Sparrows and Dark-eyed Juncos flitting about the woods. I always feel like I’ve been let in on some secret the moment I recognize a deer trail or catch a glimpse of a White-tailed Deer out of the corner of my eye. Fort Barton has so much to offer: it’s a nexus of land and sea, a place where the river flows from the land, into the bay and then to the sea. It’s quite poetic. 99 Lawton Avenue, Tiverton. 401-624-6114

Just because it’s winter, that doesn’t mean you have to resign yourself to staying indoors. Although it may just be for a short amount of time, it’s long enough to get your outdoor fix and explore areas you may not have thought of or see wildlife you never thought you would see.

Go Take a Hike: Fort Barton Woods, Tiverton, RI then eat at The Black Goose!

It was a lazy Sunday afternoon where the chill of winter was finally starting to wear off.  I've got cabin fever, and the only prescription, is sunshine and a walk in the woods.  I chose Fort Barton.

This is why you must go to Fort Barton.  It is has fabulous views of Narragansett Bay including the Sakonnet River, which isn't actually a river but a tidal strait, and Mount Hope Bay.  You can also see the Mount Hope Bridge in the background.

Here's another representation of what you are seeing:

The video was taken from the top of the observation tower at the very beginning of the hike.  A few logistical things first: Parking is on the street across the Town Hall and is free.  The location is a bit confusing so aim for the Town Hall.  The hardest part of the trail is the steep incline going from the street to the trails.  

After the initial steep incline from the street, the hiker will face a series of up and down inclines, with steps, as you make your way to the trails.  I find the ups and downs interesting and a good workout.  The novice will find it a safe challenge.  Once you reach the trailhead you have a few options of where you would like to hike.  For trail map click here.  With my brother and sister-in-law in tow, we decided to hike the entirety of the Red Trail.  Fort Barton has a total 3 miles of trails so I think that the Red Trail takes up about 2.5 miles of that.  

We start by walking over a few wooden bridges with streams gently flowing underneath.  Hiking in the woods is my zen moment.  Its also the perfect time of year to appreciate the little buds starting to form on the trees and shrubs.  Everything is about to wake up and you are there just as its about to happen.  

Beautiful rock formations, moss, and blue sky.

Lovely stream flowing near the Red Trail.

Speaking of waking up, as we are hiking I hear the call of wood frogs in the distance.  Wood frogs, along with other frogs, congregate at vernal pools this time of year and produce a beautiful chorus of calls.  I found such a pool and here is what it sounds like:

Throughout the hike we see a few families, obviously kid friendly, a few dogs and a few solo hikers.  Personally I have hiked this place many times and have always felt safe.  My only suggestion is for the eastern most end of the red trail, the signs get a bit confusing to the point where we went off trail.  Luckily though, and this is the scientist in me, we found an owl pellet.  An owl pellet is the remains of the food an owl eats that cannot be digested.  When found, you can dissect them and get a "birds eye" view of an owl's diet.

Roughly dissected owl pellet with a rodent skull, various other bones and fur.

While I was dissecting the pellet a few kids walked by with their father who were already well aware of what an owl pellet was.  Now those are some educated kids!  

Once we trecked back to the trail is was smooth sailing back to the beginning.  The Red Trail is a loop so its pretty clear where you will end up.  We crossed a few more bridges, and voila, back to where we started.  

We're so proud!

Always check yourself for ticks!!!

Now by the end of the hike we were starving.  The perfect place to go for a hearty, decently priced meal that overlooks the water is the The Black Goose Cafe.  I got the Godfather panini while my hiking buddies both got the Et tu Brute sandwich.

The Godfather Panini

Ham, Genoa salami, pepperoni, provolone, roasted red peppers, baby spinach with a spicy mayo sauce

Et Tu Brute

Grilled chicken breast, bacon, fresh romaine lettuce and shaved parmesan with a stab of Caesar dressing on country white bread

Obviously fresh ingredients, freshly prepared with no skimping on anything.  Both were served with a side of potato salad and a pickle.  The panini did not leave me wanting anything and I left very satisfied.  The potato salad was adequate and the pickle was fresh and crunchy.  The view of Nannaquaket Pond isn't a bad way to spend a meal either.

So on the way out we notice all of the homemade pastries and utter deliciousness mocking us as we try to leave without one of them.  They win:

Needless to say, from the hike to the cafe, I've had nearly every sense awakened and fulfilled.  The zen from the walk, the camaraderie with my family, and a refuel for my tired muscles.  I do believe that this is a perfect day trip.  Its 30 minutes from Providence and an excellent way to see the beauty that is our own backyard.  So get out there, and take a hike!!!