Illustrations by Caleigh McGrath (cmcgrath88@gmail.com)
Winter is settling in, but that doesn’t mean we have to settle for cozy afternoons by the fire reading a book and sipping tea. (Wait, this isn’t a bad thing!) But let’s just say you want to mix things up a little bit. In an attempt to avoid cabin fever, set out into the wilderness and let the cold wind caress your face. Now, there is really no wilderness in southeastern New England. But for those of us city or suburb bound, a little open space can seem huge; and in a place as small as Rhode Island, where there is basically a Dunkin Donuts on every corner, these open spaces are gems. They are places to be enjoyed for their feelings of solitude or with the company of your choice. Whether a novice in need of a gorgeous view, or a seasoned hiker with a want for a bit of a challenge, we’ve got your hiking needs covered.
To begin with, always check the weather and dress appropriately. Personally, I would not go hiking during a rainstorm. I would, however, watch the snow fall over the ocean, but I am a bit of a romantic. A good base layer of thermals always gets me through either a light or more challenging hike. Wearing a windproof jacket also makes life immeasurably more enjoyable while choosing to spend time in the cold.
Speaking of snow, contrary to popular belief, hiking after a snowfall is a great idea for a number of reasons. If you have never had the pleasure of being the first to walk a trail after a snowfall, add it to your bucket list. The quiet serenity of walking in the woods while hearing fresh snow crunching under your boots is something out of a Laura Ingalls Wilder novel. The sight of snow at the tide line is also something that leaves me in awe. Snow on the beach never lasts too long, so it’s always a treat when you finally do see it.
Fort Phoenix
A kid-friendly adventure
For a view of the ocean and a family-friendly place to bring the kids, Fort Phoenix is the place for you. Nestled on a peninsula in Fairhaven, it is a Civil War-era fort, complete with cannons. Not only can the kids, and adults, climb all over the cannons, but it’s a great place to view a variety of gulls. Here, you can view Great Black-backed gulls (the largest of the gull family), Herring gulls and Ring-billed gulls. In the summer the piping plover and American oystercatcher may make an appearance but, for now, gulls will do nicely. Common loons or double-crested cormorants may also make appearances. And, because this is a major port to the fishing community in New Bedford, don’t be surprised if a seal or two shows its head while eating discarded bycatch from fishing vessels.
Fort Phoenix is also the perfect place for the beginner hiker. It’s an easy introduction to the outdoors that’ll challenge you a little bit but will also give you an easy, level walk if you like. The canons are positioned on a rocky outcrop where one can easily scramble up and down the granite ledges positioned at various angles. Of course, this wouldn’t be recommended after, let’s say, a freezing night when ice has formed. But on a mild winter day with a pair of warm gloves, traversing these gentle slopes is just plain fun. I remember climbing these as a child and imagining that I was climbing Mount Everest. I would reach the top and suddenly, I was on top of the world, overlooking Buzzards Bay and hearing the gulls call in the distance.
Aside from the rocky outcrops, there is plenty of level hiking area if you are more interested in an easy stroll. For a very flat surface and one that does not compromise the gorgeous view, take a stroll on the hurricane barrier. It’s just over one half mile round trip, and on a winter day near the water, maybe that’s enough. End of Green Street, Fairhaven, MA. 508-992-4524
Horseneck Beach
For a wild time
Let’s say that you are more interested in cool wildlife viewing opportunities than just a pretty view. Head on over to Horseneck Beach in Westport and you just might catch a North American Snowy Owl. Although this Arctic raptor typically overwinters farther north, various factors have influenced North America’s heaviest owl to expand south. These factors range from lack of food supply to a successful breeding season with the juveniles forced to migrate to find suitable habitat elsewhere. Whatever the reason, I’m glad that they are here. Simply put, they are gorgeous. With black bills and yellow eyes, the males are typically pure white while the females and juveniles tend to have some dark scalloping splashed along their plumage. Bring your spotting scope or zoom lens camera and enjoy the thrill of trying to spot one. Unlike other owl species, Snowy Owls are diurnal, meaning that they hunt during the daytime and are most active at dawn and dusk. They are typically found on or near the ground, so don’t go looking up in trees to find them. Another thing to consider with Snowy Owls is that they are long-distance migrants. The juvenile that we may see on our shores has been bred in the Arctic. Observing this species at a distance is best; the less we bother them, the better.
And just because you are shore bound doesn’t mean that catching glimpses of diving ducks is out of the question. Some typical species that could make an appearance are common Eider or Long-tailed Ducks. Both species tend to group themselves into rafts and either chill out on top of the water, take a break on offshore rocks or constantly be in motion as they dive for bait fish, or anything larger if they’re lucky. I find that on beautifully sunny winter days, when I’m dressed in about three to four layers, just getting outside and into nature, whether I see something or not, is utter zen. Now, I may not exactly be outside for a long time, but there is still something special about being outside this time of year. Also, if I know I’m going to be hiking along the beach, I’ll try to choose a day that will not be too windy. On the other hand, if you do brave the beach on a windy day, expect to see a spectacular display of wave action. There is nothing more New England than watching the waves crash while dressed in your finest L.L. Bean gear or in your favorite Carhartt jacket. 5 John Reed Road, Westport, MA. 508-636-8816
Fort Barton
Living history
Now let’s go to the other end of the spectrum. Let’s go inland and do something more challenging. I’m talking about Fort Barton in Tiverton. This is a Revolutionary War fort. The most challenging part of this hike is the very beginning, a somewhat steep climb that immediately rewards with impressive views of the Sakonnet River. And this is just the beginning.
After you’ve caught your breath, start to wind your way around the watch tower and you’ll encounter a series of somewhat steep wooden stairs. Good hiking footwear is essential for this trail. Personally, I enjoy the steep series of stairs; it’s a good workout and feels like the adult version of the granite outcrops at Fort Phoenix. At the top of the final climb to the trailhead take a moment to relish your accomplishment, then head off into the woods and see what you find. If you think hiking in general is serene, try it in the winter. It is just so much quieter. Every sound in the woods seems amplified; the twigs snap louder, the birds tweet sweeter and the soft steps on the dirt trail seems more poignant. Off in the distance you will hear the soft bubbling of a stream that runs through the property, welcome to serenity.
I have a soft spot for wooden bridges, and this place has a few. I always feel like I’ve found some hidden treasure every time I walk over one. This time of year I would expect to find White-crowned Sparrows and Dark-eyed Juncos flitting about the woods. I always feel like I’ve been let in on some secret the moment I recognize a deer trail or catch a glimpse of a White-tailed Deer out of the corner of my eye. Fort Barton has so much to offer: it’s a nexus of land and sea, a place where the river flows from the land, into the bay and then to the sea. It’s quite poetic. 99 Lawton Avenue, Tiverton. 401-624-6114
Just because it’s winter, that doesn’t mean you have to resign yourself to staying indoors. Although it may just be for a short amount of time, it’s long enough to get your outdoor fix and explore areas you may not have thought of or see wildlife you never thought you would see.
